La Paz to Puno - Bolivia

La Paz to Puno

Being that we stayed in a nice hotel away from the backpacker area Bolvia Hop was a bit confused by us. Bolivia hop caters towards backpackers to help them get through countries while making stops where you can get on or off and stay overnight. We booked with them to let us a see a little more do the country instead of an overnight bus or flying. Since they didn't have pick up they had us meet at San Francisco plaza at 6 am.

When the guy found us he was so relieved. He couldn't believe the coordinator had us meet there instead of just going to Loki hostel where the bus actually comes. Duh!!! Either way we trudged back to the hostel at 6 am with both now heavy suitcases from shopping.

The bus full of backpackers made me excited. I was eager to chat with many of them to get tips about the following travels. As my mom pulled out food and began giving it away to the budget backpackers she quickly became their favorite mama bear! The bus leader was beyond hysterical. He loved to smoke cigs, eat chocolate, and loved his boys. He repeated these things constantly as he flirted with the Italian guys in our bus. A Bolivia native he enjoyed working in the bus and just making people laugh. By our first restroom break every single person craved chocolate and bought it off the gas station lady.

 

We arrived at our first views of lake titicaca. I'll be honest I never thought this place actually existed but a funny made up name people would say. But lake titicaca is real and it's at some pretty high altitude which is impressive.

 

Since both Bolivia and Peru share lake titicaca and parts switch back and forth between who own what we had to get off the bus and take a boat. We could t cross through the Peruvian section since it was a Bolivian bus. We took a nice little boat ride across the lake.

 

The next stop was in the cute little seaside, well lakeside, town of Copacabana. You better believe I was singing that song in my head the whole time! Although it's built up for tourist I still really enjoyed it. We walked around shopping although it seemed as if no one wanted to sell anything. The local church was very nice. 

 

We took another boat across lake titicaca to the Isla del Sol. My mom opted to stay in the boat until it reached the next port while I jumped off and hiked with some of the other kids. This almost turned into a massive mistake. They are very strict on time and when they leave. The boat captain spoke very little English and made it clear they will leave you.

 

While I enjoyed a lovely hike past the turn off for the port time was running out. Ed, another backpacker, and I had gotten lost and not taken the right turn. We walked faster and faster. It wouldn't be so much of a problem other than the fact our luggage was back in copa and my mom and I had a strict schedule.

 

We stopped a boy and asked him in broken Spanish where to go. He told us and we gave him some money as a thanks. Five more minutes walking we didn't seem to be going the right way. We asked an adult next. He pointed back where we came from. We practically ran! Ten minutes to go and I can see the port way down below. Rocky inka stairs led the whole way down. Ouch! We struggled down trying to beat the clock. Meanwhile down at the port the boat guy was tapping his watch reminding my mom they would in fact leave me. She didn't know what to do. Racing down the stairs Ed and I made it with one minute to spare! Phew!!!

 

Back on the bus we had a bit of time to nap before the boarder crossing. Another guide who would be our Bolivia guide was joining us. Turns out she illegally crossed the boarder to join us. Super simple crossing made difficult by two massive suitcases housing souvenirs. This border was entertaining because if we wouldn't have gotten the Bolivia visas you could easily skip the checking out of the country line. There are no guards to check you or make sure you got stamped out. 

 

Entering Peru, my 41st country, I was greeted by a massive Peru statue and massive cusquena beer statue. Hello Peru!!

Watching the sunset from the bus we slowly drove around the lake to Puno. Here we got off the bus. We were warned that there may be a strike and we couldn't get out the next day. The two girls on our bus got stuck there for three days in the way into Bolivia. 

Puno was nothing special in my opinion. Our hotel was nice and we enjoyed a good dinner before resting up to take the Incan Ruta del Sol, sun route, to Cusco in the morning.

The Doctor is in the House!

Camini Real Suites La Paz

Let's just say this is one of the nicest hotels I've ever been to for a very small prices. I'm still shocked what money can buy in Bolivia. Yes southwest Asia gave me beachside bungalows for less than 10 dollars but the city was always a different story. For less than 100 dollars this place gave it all. If you ever visit La Paz in a small trip and enact the best for a family trip please go here. If you are a backpacker you can disregard my post!

After being in the wilderness for days, sleeping in negative weather, having altitude headaches, and arriving at this mountainside city at night we were praying for a nice hotel. We wound down the streets from 4100m to 3500m passing more buildings than I've ever seen in my life. This city  is massive. I've said it before and I'll say it again I'm beyond impressed and shocked by what the city was like. We passed through some shady areas. 

Fingers crossed we arrived. Beautiful and massive! I felt guilty walking in with my backpack and dirty clothes. Shocked my mom and I smiled at each other! This is amazing.

The room was huge with comfy beds. We even had a pillow menus. 

We ordered room service which was not only ridiculously cheap but also ridiculously delicious.

They helped us with everything. Booked our taxis to the new year and told us where to visit. They were just on top of everything.

The best however was after the wrestling my moms ankle really was hurting. Nervous that it would hurt the trip we decided to ask the front desk what to do. The receptionist, who was the sweetest girl ever, said they would call a doctor. What?! We just meant we needed ice or a cream or something. 

She told us to wait at the room and a doctor would come. Before we knew it there were two doctors in the room checking out my moms ankle. As they asked questions in Spanish our communication was very poor. Then a translator showed up! Are you kidding me? 

The damage was small which was as good news and all should be fine In a Few days. They gave her some bandages and a prescription for pain killers. How do we get the prescription filled? No worries we will send someone to fill them and deliver. 

The whole situation was beyond comical but so nicely taken care of and convenient. We could not have been more thankful. A little nervous for the bill we were once again shocked that the total was under 10 dollars!! No seriously all of that was only 10 dollars and 8 of it was the cost of painkillers. And with that we were ready for the next part of our journey thanks to Camino Real Suites!

Ruta del Sol

Ruta del Sol

It is clear that the tourist industry is much more build up in Peru. Getting a taxi to the bus terminal our driver knew exactly what the Inka Express was. Entering the bus terminal tours were offered left and right. This is a much bigger difference than the systems working in Bolivia. 

On the way to our first stop we passed through the largest city in the Puno district. I had flashbacks of India. Cars were everywhere trying to swerve in front and navigate quickly through the city. This all happened while donkeys, llamas, and people walked down the streets. Other than the main road all of the side roads that you look down were dirt and extremely dusty. It makes me really appreciate the neat and clean living we have in the United States and other areas of the world. I'm already thankful we are taking this route so that we can see some life outside of the tourist developed and catering cities!

 

Our first stop was the ruins of the Pukara people from 200 AD to 100 Bc. Here we learned about the civilization that influenced the Incas. I was very surprised to learn that the Incas were in the 1500s and not earlier. 

One of the things they adopted from the Pukara's was the three tier life system. The condor representing heaven, the puma representing life, and the frog being afterlife. The Incas changed the frog to a snake. I have already purchased a new knife to add to my collection that depicts this belief!

I've probably mentioned it before but I love bus rides. It beats all other forms of transportation while traveling in countries. It allows you to see outside of the city and all of he towns and sights along the way. Passing by the little towns women and children were out hearing their livestock. Many house were left abandoned when the roof collapsed and new houses have sprung up around them. They are built from stacked stone and straw roofs.

 

At 4300 m we reached La Raya pass which separates Puno and Cusco. In the distance you can see a mountain glacier at 5300 m that empties into the rivers of the sacred valley and near Machu Picchu. My favorite part about this was knowing that I had previously hiked higher than that mountain.

 

Lunch was a fabulous buffet at a typical tourist bus location. Obviously built solely for tourist bus trips the building housed all types of cultural decorations. Music played while lunched was served to give you a feel of the local musical taste. 

After lunch we stopped at an old civilization stop where some of the walls still stand. I can't remember the name but one section was built so that on the winter solstice the sun Luke rise, follow the Main Street, and set at the end. Pretty cool science and architecture for that time period.

 

On the way out we witnessed the funeral of 19 year old local boy. Still thinking about it gives me chills. The entire town lined up outside of the church to carry the casket out. Women sobbed. An older lady, his grandmother,  couldn't watch and walked to a close by shop where she uncontrollable wept. 

The funeral had taken place in the Catholic Church but would then proceed down into the nature to continue practice of Incan times and pray to Pachamama as well. As sad as the scene was I found it beautiful that the people still kept both traditions alive. It turns out that during the new year celebrations the day before he had gotten into a nasty fight. Another group of local boys had beaten him to death. Clearly the result of too much alcohol. What a shame that during a celebration of sun, live, and the year a boy would lose his life.

The next two stops were at churches. Here we learned about the evolution of the churches in the area. How Spanish and such came in through the years and changed their beliefs and views. With the language barrier they used paintings on the walls to do their teachings. When the churches were taken over again they decided to just built on top of the previous alters or paintings.

Both churches were beyond gorgeous. I mean they are masterpieces. Peruvian law prohibits photography so unfortunately I couldn't take pictures. They did give us a disc with photos on it that I'll post when I get back. If you are curious Google Sistine chapel of Peru. One guy did all of the paintings in the one church.

 

The largest painting was in the back of the church. One side depicted the path to heaven while the other the oath to hell. Each side had common factors mirror each other such as the demon or angel pulling you in one direction. The picture showed that the wealthy that indulged in abundance would be pulled down the wrong road but a clear easy path. One of the men walked away from that table and walked the pathway to heaven covered in thorns. A harder but right life takes you to heaven.

On the right side of the church was a massive painting that had similarities to the one in the Sistine chapel. People were being pulled downward and eaten while others went up. The paintings were done to draw in the old religion and teach the new. The puma, condor, and snake could all be found in the section of hell.

The end of the route concluded with my mom, another couple, and a girl named Rose discussing our travels and the fun day we had.

Cholita Wrestling

Cholita Wrestling

Ok this may be one of the funniest, weirdest, and most awkward events I have ever attended. Probably not worse Then when my friends and I accidentally ended up in a locals only dance club in Nepal, but very close.

We were told to meet outside the San Francisco plaza where our guide would get us. To get to the bus we had to cross the road there. The lady was rushing so much that as she tried to help us down the stairs my mom tripped and hurt her ankle. More on this will come later.

One by one we picked up more people as we are stuffed into a run down and beaten up bus. It looked as if it was picked from the bus graveyard. The wrestling would take place in El Alto, where we ended up the day before. As we made our way up the hill to 4100m it sounded as if our bus would die.

Finally we were there. One of the leaders explained to follow him in because we were not in the safest of towns. I told him how we spent the entire day there previously without a tour and he looked shocked. Oh well! We had a blast and danced forever and all was well.

 Then we entered the arena. We had our tickets which included two bathroom trips, yes we had bathroom tickets, a snack, souvenir, and entrance. As we made out way through the dirty entrance and past the smelly toilets we could see the ring!

 

In the middle of a worm down gymnasium a big wrestling ring was set up. To the left were bleachers that were packed with locals eating popcorn and cotton candy. Around the ring two rows of picnic chairs were set up for the tourists. It felt as if we were put their not as a privilege but more of entertainment and to be gawked at by the locals.

 

The show became and consisted of different wrestles dressed up in ridiculous costumes fighting each other.

The real fun began when the cholitas dressed in their beautiful shawls, shirts, and hats came out. They would parade around getting the crowd amped up and excited. Next they would remove their jewelry and shawls and begin to fight.

These chicks don't play fair and have some massive balls. Nothing was held back as girls fought girls, guys, multiple guys, and guys and girls. It was a free for all.

During the 8 different matches you could tell who the local favorites were. When someone was cheating or doing something they didn't like oranges, bananas, and all different trash came pelting down from the audience.

 

One cholitas pulled out a volunteer. This tourist was so excited. After she danced with him in the ring everyone was cheering. He made his way through the tourist crowd running our the ring receiving high fives before proceeding into the local stands to do the same!

But the finale took the prize. The lights were shut off and in entered two witch doctors guided by men masked in black cloaks carrying torches. The one spotted me and walked over and shoved something in my face. It didn't register at first what is was. He turned it around and showed me the bloody side!

 

Omg it's a decapitated donkey head!!!!! And it's an inch from my face. I held my breath and tried to seem unphased to not get a rise from the locals. The next guy could not contain himself though. As the witch doctor showed him the head he jumped back knocking over chairs and ran. The locals Immediately began to cheer and laugh. 

 

The final match continued forever as these two witch doctors used a donkey head, llama head, and guts to beat up the two competitors. They were stuffing the intensities in their face and using them to strangle them. I thought I had seen it all before this show but I was clearly wrong.

 

Every now and then intestines would fly into the audience and r tourists would scream and run. By this point more than have of the tourists had retreated out of their seats and hid in the back or left to go outside. 

Fake blood gushed from many of the characters and local kids ran down with tissues to help them out. This was Bolivias WWF wrestling at its finest.

The show ended when every character from the entire show came out and dog piled the witch doctors. Even a tourist took the opportunity to run and jump on the very top of the pile.

Disturbed, confused, and entertained we boarded the bus back to town. We took in one of the look out points, funny because it was one of the ones we looked for the day before and never found. 

Galapagos update

Sorry I have not been posting as quickly as I would've liked. I will be trying to catch up and post all the ones up to where I am now!

As a quick update Ill tell you I have been traveling through all of the Galápagos Islands. Instead of booking the luxury cruise I opted to take small boats and stay on the island. The results have been interesting to say the least and I've gotten to spend time talking to locals! So here is a quick picture story of my 10 day excursion so far!

 

Puerto Chino

 

Scuba diving at Kicker rock! I was fortunate to see a school of 50 sharks, white tips, black tips, Galapagos sharks, and hammerheads!!!!

 

I got to copilot a 6 person plane between islands! Can't wait to write about how this one came about!

 

Snorkeling in a rock fissure at Las Grietas!

 

Baby sea lions everywhere. No really I mean everywhere. 

 

They steal your spot in the beach all day long!

 

I've been dropped off at secluded beaches only reachable by boat. This was the most beautiful. The beaches are so beautiful I don't have to edit a thing. Except straighten them since I've been a clutz snapping pictures.

 

In the highlands the tree grow massive and you can climb them by rope or vine...

Aymara New Year

Aymara New Year

It was a pleasant surprise to find out that there would be an Aymara new year celebration less than two hours away from us. With a little research, and not much info, we found out that we would have to travel out of the city two hours to the west to get to the ruins of Tiwanaku. Here the Aymara from all over South America would gather to catch the first rays of light through the temple gateway.

 

We asked out lovely hotel for info and they looked a little shocked. They warned us that before the sun rose a party would be going on all night long before. Oh well we wanted to see the experience for ourselves.

 

Leaving the hotel at the wee hours of 2:30 am we were on our way. With the high altitude, winter, and nighttime it was freezing. Slowly the car ride got colder and colder as the taxi did not have heat? At least we think he didn't. We tried everything with our little bit of Spanish but he didn't get the picture. My mom and I huddled close.

We slept most of the way except for when we reach checkpoints. Throughout the night we passed a few of them where the police would check drivers license, passports, and such. 

 

When we arrived it was packed with people. All along the roads people had tents set up to camp out and fires burning. As our driver helped us get tickets and put us in line we saw how massive this event really was. Once our driver left we jumped out of line to check what was going on with the fires everywhere. Down the street more and more fires were lit right in the road as locals danced and drank the night away.

 

Eventually we joined back in the line to wait to get into the site. Being that we were tourists we actually got to skip line for once! Following the line of people through he grounds we came to the spot where the sun would come up, at least we thought so. In the pitch black it was impossible to figure out where the gate was but the crowd was there so it seemed right.

Then we waited and froze. I probably lost a toe or two that night. Then we waited some more. I never realized just how long it takes for a sun to appear. It seemed so light yet no sun.

 

The Aymara people began to play music and their rainbow flags waved in the air. A huge fire began to burn as the head chanted some prayers to pachamama, the earth God.

Slowly hands shot into the air to wait for that first beam of light. Music erupted and everyone fell silent as the sun made its appearance over the mountains. I can truly say it's one of the most magical and spiritual experiences I've had. To see a group of people that still band together in their believes and worship the earth and sun.

 Hands up hands up everyone hands up!

 
 

Once the official ceremony was over people walked around the grounds to touch the sun at the gate, give offerings to pachamama, and meet with the leaders.

The fire pit was crammed with people throwing offerings such as coco leaves.

A group played traditional music so everyone could dance. 

The leader proudly walked around getting pictures with people.

 

My mom and I got the sun through the gate!

And everyone went around greeting and hugging each other. 

Around 8 am we slowly made it back to our driver and started back towards la Paz for more fun activities!

Go with the Flow part 2

Go with the Flow part 2

To make out tour we had to run down streets to find the bus meeting point. Twenty minutes of running at 3600 meters makes you tired very quickly! What time is it? No the bus is leaving now. We look around and don't find a bus anywhere. Frustrated, hot, and hungry my mom and I stood there. Oh no our whole day plan is thrown off! We decide to scrap all plans and just go with the flow.

We knew there was a lookout point named mirador Killi Killi. For some reason I thighs it was on top of a cable car. We wave down a taxi and I draw him a picture of a cable car hoping that will get the message. I mean this massive gondola is a major point of the city right. After some broken communication we think he has it right and are dropped off at a red gondola. Wasn't the gondola yellow? 

 

Oh well it gave us spectacular views.

Everywhere you looked the city was covered in buildings.

 

Even in the mountain sides.

At the top we explored first to the right. One thing was apparent there weren't any tourists up here.

Tracing back and exploring instead to the left gave of views into real Aymara life. Little stalls lined the street. I'm still unsure if these were houses or shops.

 

Cholitas sat outside burning fires and cooking in the chilly air. All around people were moving about, going somewhere, or selling something.

Reaching the their market we found that we were in the true witches market. Not the small street off if the main square that sold stuff for souvenirs but the real life market. Rows upon rows of shabby stalls stood selling talismans of all kinds. 

 

The market seemed to be in sections. One area had stall with men peaking their heads out ready to clean or make you shoes. 

 

One street was just plain dirty but had a certain charm to it. 

 

After hours of exploring beyond the market and just walking the streets we started to walk back toward where we thought the cable car was. On the way we noticed bands start to appear. The men were standing around playing while the cholitas watched and giggled.

The sun cast a pretty glow on the city below and the mountain in the distance.

Then we spotted a massive band standing around eating. We stood and watched as they ate popcorn off of the largest drum. Once all of the popcorn was gone the band began to strike up their tune.

 

The woman took the floor and began to dance. The music carried on and on in their native tone while the woman threw their arms up to the sun mouthing words. Before I knew it I was being swept up by one of the cholitas to dance with her!

She hugged and kissed me and begun to spin me around. 

For the next twenty minutes we danced and danced and danced. Locals looked on at us and some even took pictures. Everything I tried to catch my breath she would twirl me faster. I imagined the U.S. Newspaper would read "American dies by death of cholitas dancing!" I was having a blast! 

 

Luckily I was able to swap out with my mom. She had some moves too!!!

We discovered that they were going to dance for the next two hours until the sun finally set. This would be the start of the Aymara new year party all the way until the first rays appeared the next morning. 

Tired but thrilled at our day we made out way back down and to our hotel. We discovered that our fabulous day wasn't even in La Paz but a city above it at 4100 m called El Alto. Not exactly a tourist destination or spot. There are more than one gondola and we never even reached the right lookout point. Turns out that just exploring without a clue can lead to wonderful things.