Ancient Korezm

The Golden Circle

After leavivvng the museum we entered the desert and nothingness again. Hours and hours worth of driving. In the beautiful even sunlight we come across what looked like a fortress from long ago.

 

We stopped and took some pictures. The fortress looked amazing in the evening light. The wind however was less than amazing. Gusts of wind swept across the desert battering at our bodies.

Already half broken from bush camps and lack of showers, we started to panic about our upcoming camp. The wind would make trying to set up tents as well as keep a fire going to cook on seem impossible. Lee and Jamie had found in the Lonely Planet guide an upcoming yurt camp. 

 

Together we got together and discussed our options for camping. Steve, the insane but amazing bush man he is, did not want to go to a campsite and would prefer to suffer through the night. Most of the group was did not need any convincing. After a slightly aggressive argument I was settled that we would drive up and check to see if there was space in the yurts.

Pulling up to the camp, three of us got out to discuss the price with the lovely Uzebeki lady. With a little negotiating we got the price from 25 dollars down to 15. You guys know how much I love to negotiate. In this price we also got to use the kitchen area safe from the dust and wind!

Steve, I think was a little put off because he didn't get his way. As soon as we dropped our stuff in the nice yurts with no wind he insisted we dry out all the tents from the night before in the Aral Sea. It was pretty comical to watch everyone trying to not lose the battle against the wind. I discovered that you could stand on the corner and the entire tent would fill up with the strong wind!

That night we enjoyed a nice dinner inside a yurt! Yay for no dust and no tents. The yurt was decorated in a traditional style. Late that evening we had a little fun getting to try on all the traditional outfits. Although I am pretty sure we did not wear them all correctly.

After a good nights sleep I woke up and finally got to take a shower! Yes, a shower! The trickle out of the faucet was slow to conserve water but hey, after camping in the desert and sweating days on end it was fabulous.

Now time for exploring this desolate but intriguing area in the daylight. The drive from Nukus in the previous day took north of Urgench Ito southern Karaalpakstan. This area was previously known as Khorzem over 2,000 years ago when the Amu-Darya used to flow and make the area flourish. The forts that we we're currently starring up at date back 2,000 years. This particular one is a complex of 3 forts named Ayaz-Qala and are part of the Ancient Elliq-Qala, meaning fifty fortresses, and today named by UNESCO as the `Golden Ring of Ancient Khorezm.`   

Hiking straight up the mountain in the early morning golden sun I was once again shocked. Here we are in an ancient ruin town with not a single person, tourist or worker. No admission, no rules, and no people. Had this been in another Western city fences would be build to keep people off the walls and people would want paid to let you see it. 

For about an hour we hiked on top of the now melted fortress walls. I stopped many times to try to imagine the nomads coming into the city walls during an invasion for protection. Looking out in every direction was more and more barren land. Land that we somehow had managed to cross and camp through for days. It was a beautiful way to start the day! 

Delay

Sorry for the long delay in posts. I will be in the for thr next couple of days in bush camps in Kyrgyzstan. I will try my best to write and catch up accordingly! 

Brown Water, Black Market, Blue Art

Leaving behind the decaying ships and dimished sea we continued back up to the town of Moynaq. Everyone has been feeling pretty gritty lately since we are all going on days of no shower, 120+ degree camping, dust storms, and now rained on. Steve spotted a less that optimal bathing choice an hour down the road near where we first exchanged money. A murky brown river. Hmmmm am I that desperate already? We all got out of the truck and looked around. 

A massive herd of goats come trotting across the bridge. Pretty sure they were just relieving themselves in the river that Steve wanted us to bath in. Mike on the other hand was already down the path and in the water enjoying his shower. Rachel and I looked at each other and then down at ourselves. I could scrape the desert sand caked to my body with my fingers. Alright let's do this!

Surprisingly it was extremely refreshing. Steve helped us by using a bowl to pour the water over out heads. Except on problem. He did this without a warning!!! I closed my mouth but not before one large nasty brown water gulp went down my throat. I desperately tried to not think about what I could`ve just swallowed. If the 5 of us who bathed gets sick we know why!

Fresh and kind of clean we entered the town to exchange some money. We had to exchange enough money to pay some upcoming hotel costs. The stack we got by entering the black market was obscene. Multiple bags were used to carry this exchange safely back to our truck.

I also couldn't help myself. I had to snag this nifty broom that everyone uses to sweep the streets and houses with. Maybe I will use it to clean all the desert dust out of the truck with.

 

A few hours later and we were in our first real functioning town, Nukus. Immediately the architecture stood out. Soviet style buildings blatantly lined the streets. I do not have much experience or knowledge of the Soviet times and this trip is rapidly changing that. One thing I am already certain of is that I am not a fan of the big, cold, cookie cutter buildings. 

Our main objective for reaching this town was the Karakalpakstan Savitsky museum, also known as the Nukus Museum. Here in the middle of nowhere Uzbekistan lies the biggest collection of 1930`s Soviet avante garde artwork. Igoe Savitsky was an avid collector of artwork that were technically illegal under the soviet regime. These pieces of art featured emotions that may have expressed sadness as a result of their way of life. 

Throughout the years Savitsky began to feverishly collect anything he came across. Famous Soviet artists who were now either painting in secret or had hidden away all of their non conforming artwords were sought out by Mr. Savitsky. He scowere basements and attics asking family members to please allow him to stash each thing he found. His collection began to grow.

Knowing that these would not be safe in Russia or other heavily occupied areas he started to transport them down to Uzbekistan which had become his knew home. The naturally harsh landscaped created an environmental barrier and an unlikely place for a masterpiece collection to be hidden away. Over the years he continued making tris bring piece upon piece. Today more than 90,000 pieces of artwork belong to the collection. 

The art museum has garnered more attention over the years. Many believe a lot of these precious painting had fallen victim to the Soviet times. However, here they are in the small town of Nukus in the desert. A piece of history and a time of art once forgotten has been found. The museum has had some ups and downs. Collectors and enthusiasts around the world have tried to get the collection in a more prestigious place. Even the Uzbekistan government questioned its relation to keeping this part of history within their country, a history they wish to move past. Through the time it has stayed and from what I have read begun to grow and upgrade.

(Image copyright of Savistky Museum)

 

Walking around the museum, again I did not know what to expect. Before this trip I had never heard that such a thing even existed. Upon entering the top floor I was drawn in by a few factors. One, the paintings called out to you. Each one had a story behind the painting. My favorite paintings in the place were done by the same artist, Vladimir Lysenko. After painting a captivating bull with a wild look in his eyes he was sent away to a camp for being mentally disturbed. Another painting landed another artist in jail for years. Stories like this followed one after another. Second, these were painted secretly and against the regime. Standing there just knowing that an artist was struggling knowing that what they wanted to paint was not going to conform brought a chill up my back. Third, this is the largest collection yet the preservation of the paintings stands in the hands of ladies setting trays of water beneath the paintings to keep them moist. I suggest anyone who has an interest in Soviet history or in Art history finds a steady car and make the journey to this little gem of a museum. 

 

Death of the Aral Sea

The Aral Sea

 

Uzbekistan he were are! I had done very little research before coming on this trip with the hopes of learning about a whole knew region of the world. Turkmenistan had proved to be interesting. Uzbekistan however promised millenniums of history steeped in bloodshed and rulers throughout the history of the Silk Road. 

After our grueling entrance into the country we shot straight up to the town of Moynaq. Along the way we made a quick stop at a market in hopes of exchanging some money. Uzbekistan has a monetary system that is on the verge of collapse but has grasped on to life through black market trading. One USD is equally to around 4,000 som as regulated through the bank. However, people every are eager to exchange one dollar for 8,000 som. This struggle between the rates is something I have never witnessed before.

To make matters even more complicated the most common bills are that of the 1,000 and 500 som. This means that one 20 USD bill is exchanged to be between 160-320 bills. Talk about feeling like a king carrying around wads of cash.

 

Stacks upon stack upon stacks later we jetted to Moynaq and the remains of the Aral Sea. Moynaq was a fishing town that relied on the sea for their way of life. Sadly, due to human actions, the sea has begun to dry up and shrink significantly over the past 50+ years. Today, Moynaq is nothing but a village suffering under the loss. With waters shrinking, the remains of the sea are nothing but highly concentrated dusty plains with some brush growing. The salty dust is the main cause of many health problems.

We drove to the edge of the previous sea line and looked at the empty plains ahead. A sick feeling overtook me. This entire area used to be a sea with a thriving fishing village. A real reminder of the damage humans are having on the planet could not be ignored. Since we took so long at the border our arrival was already way passed schedule. We drove down into the missing sea and out into the dusty lands to find a camping spot.

 

As we all sit around eating dinner, it was my cooking shift and I made chicken and pasta, we saw lightning in the distance. Jamie assured us that it only rains once a year in these lands. Not completely convinced we brushed it off and took it for heat lightning. The moon begin to rise a deep blood red. American horror story Roanoke anyone? Totally shattered from the long border crossing, drive, and heat we made our way to our tents.

Laying in bed I could not sleep. It was still 100+ degrees and not cooling off as quick as usually. Sticky salty air filled the tent. I got up and opened the tent flaps to let some air in and finally fell asleep. Not long after I was shaken awake by violently gusting winds and rain beginning to fall. Hmmmm I thought it didn't rain Jamie?

Quickly, people jumped out of their tents to lower their window flaps. Hanne, my tent partner did not stir at all, she can sleep through everything. Back in my tent the rain stopped within minutes. Twenty minutes later another violent gust of wind came with more rain. Some of the boys ran around outside staking down tents and putting on rain flaps. Gusts came out of nowhere strong enough to pick the tent up even with our bags in it. 

Again, it quickly settled down and the boys retreated back to their tents. Then the sky really began to pour. An engine started. I panicked. Did everyone else leave me? Shouting over to the tent next to me Lee assured me everyone was here but it would seem that the truck was leaving. Sure enough our driver, organizer, and Alex took off in the truck. We later found out they went to higher ground so the truck would no get stuck. But in the moment non of us knew why we were being ditched in a bi polar rain and wind storm.

A sleepless night followed. When the truck arrived in the morning and everyone made their way out of their tents you could tell spirits were down. Everyone was already feeling the effects of being dirty and shower less in the bush camps previously but the nights events had escalated it all.

We cleaned up camped and went out to explore the ship graveyard. Since the sea was no longer the ships that once occupied its waters have been left only as an eare reminder of what once was. Many of them have been dragged and relocated to this shipyard. 

 

Cows roam around the base seeking shade in the summer heat. These ships are a constant reminder of the permanent damage done. 

Roaming around through the ships the rain picked up again! Running back to the truck we jumped back on soaking wet for anothe fun day of adventure.

Uzbek border

Uzbek Border

I've done quite a lot of border crossings, many of which were land borders, but none have every been quite like this.

Leaving Konye-Urgench we made our way to the border crossing just north. We started out early so that we would be through hopefully before the lunch break. Upon arrival we departed our truck with small day bags for them to search.

It took well over an hour to get through security just to leave the country. One by one we were ushered through. First through a metal detector, then to a passport check table, and then to a search table. Every single thing had to come out of our bags. Then our phones and cameras were checked for illegal photos. As I stood waiting for my turn a swam of police surrounded Alex. Being on the other side we had no idea what was going on. It turns out they saw his drone and were debating the legality of it. Here is the catch, we are LEAVING the country. These are police checking to make sure he is importing a drone in. Eventually he was passed on and allowed to take it with him. 

Now it was my turn. Approaching the passport desk I handed over my passport to be greeted with a massive smile when he looked at my passport. Commenting that I was beautiful he looked up at my face and his smile disappeared quickly. Holding the passport next to my face his eyes darted back and forth between the picture and me then flagged me on. This incident happened again two more times that day during previous check points. Alright, I get it! I haven't showered in days, have been camping in 120 degree heat in the dusty desert, and I don't look like my picture. Way to rub it in guys. 

After making it through exit security we had our passports stamped and began to wait. Why? Because exit security was now searching everything on the truck. One by one they pulled out the tents and even checked some of them. Another hour went by before making our way across no man`s land to Uzbekistan Border.

Here we were met with a similar circumstance. We filled out documents, presented them, presented them to more people, got things scanned, moved to new lines, and continued to wait. When we finally got to being stamped into the county the lined stopped with Lee. Holding Lee`s passport he made a few calls. Lee, who is from New Zealand, currently is teaching in Saudi Arabia. Often when he leaves the country he has to get permission from the country to do so. This was his best guess as to what was going on because he heard the man say Saudi a few times on the phone.

Another hour goes by! Finally the process starts back up and they let him through with the rest of us. While the truck was being ripped apart again, this time to enter the country we looked around at the border control signs. One massive one stood out as we all read it over and over again. It read something along the lines of this:

It is prohibited to bring in any journals, media, CDs, DVDs, books, pamphlets, cliches, art, recordings, (on and on the list goes) that undermines the Stale of Uzbekistan and promotes liberty, unrest, government change, political discussions, and war.

Coming into the country we knew that Uzbekistan was known for its overly harsh police government state of affairs. Our guide had told us stories of torture than were tales carried over the border. However, we were not sure what to really expect. This sign opened a slew of questions and we could not wait to begin to explore.

More Deserts, Bush Camps, Konye Urgench

More Deserts, Bush Camps, Konye Urgench

Continuing away from the crater we encounter, yes you guessed it, more deserts and still no people. Looking back on these days I can not say that I remember anything really particular about it other than it was blisteringly hot, finding a tiny desert shop with cold water was a blessing, and camping in this heat aide it impossible to sleep until it cooled down at 2 am.

(Sittin on top of the truck roof to watch the sunset)

 

This particular bush camp provided with some pretty good entertainment at night. Our guide Max has a particular taste for vodka. Like most Turkmenistani people, he loves it. We have begun to notice that as the moon rises the vodka goes down, down, and down. The most entertaining part about this is he can be heard signing to himself in the late hours of the night!

Due to the heat I did a lot of sleeping on the bus and stayed up a good portion of the night with Lee and Alex. We found a dung beetle carrying a load though camp and had a good laugh about that among other things. 

Early the next morning we packed up camp and drove down the road to Konye Urgench, meaning Old Urgench from the Persians. Here we wandered through the ruins of a once magnificent city long ago.

Throughout the years this city has seen many travesties and successes. Back in the 12th century it was one of the centers of the Muslim world until a revenge attack from Chinggis Khan in 1221. The Mongols fought and destroyed the city for over 6 months before finally drowning everyone by diverting a river.

During the next years the city was rebuilt and became one of the most important cities in Central Asia thanks to trading routes. However, in 1388 it was seen as a rival city to Samarkand and Timur ordered it destroyed. Although it was partly rebuilt in the 16th century only a few structures have managed to escape the destruction and can been seen left standing. It has now become an official UNESCO world heritage sight.

 

This minaret was spared during the descruction due to its beauty. When the Mongols came to the city it was ordered to be left alone. Today, the minaret stands tall but leaning greatly to one side!

Deserts and Dinos

Deserts and Dinos

Waking up everyone was reminded of the funny events that took place the previous night. With a long drive ahead we knew it would keep us laughing for hours. However, we also knew that the road ahead was going to be one of wastelands.

(Photo: Jamie)

 

Heading back to the market we stocked up for what we believed to be one nights supplies. Jamie and I strolled through the market looking for supples but while also secretly taking pictures, three pics to be exact. First, we snapped on of me buying a drink, then one of a can of Pringles, and third one of some ladies cleaning. Within not even a minute multiple men came up to us demanding our phones. Trying to shrug it off was no use. Jamie was caught red handed with some pictures that showed practically nothing The men continued on until he finally deleted them. For the rest of our shopping we were followed around being watched.

 

Off on the road it hit us fast and strong just how the trek across the Karakum Desert was going to go. Long, Hot, and Sweltering Hot. After passing one last stretch of identical marble housing unites we entered the desert. With temperatures quickly climbing above 115 I clutched onto my one ice water bottle for dear life. Very little conversation took place as we all were too hot to even think.

After a few hours we reached our first town and stop. In the midst of the rubble of fallen Soviet shacks, deserts homes, and trash stood a small Soviet monument and broken trucks. 

 

Exploring a little further we found one building with life forms. A tiny shack had ice cold water and ice cream. We all cleared out the store grabbing as much as we could.

 

Outside the building more life appeared. This time in the form of tons of camels strapped down to a giant truck bed. This country is getting more and more strange as the time goes on. 

 

The hours passed and the heat continue to rise. Our once frozen was now nothing but boiling hot water that we tried to make more desirable by adding tea bags or lime. Finally, somewhere in the middle of the desert our goal was finally reached as we came across the 3 craters.

 

First, the water crater. It is still debated whether this was a natural occurrence or the mistake in lack of technology during Soviet gas drilling.

Second, the mud crater. This was very similar to the first just without the water and add in a bit of mud and fire. 

Finally, we reached the Darvasa Gas Crater and our main goal of the drive. Parking the truck a bit away due to heat reasons we began our hike over to the crater. As we approached the waves of heat came towards us with the wind. Boy was it hot. Add a giant burning gas crater on top of the desert heat and I felt like I was going to be cooked straight through. Arriving at the edge I was totally blown away. 

Here in the middle of nowhere is a crater that the government claims no longer exists. Partly to cover up the fact all of this gas is leaking from the ground and burning and partly because, well it's Turkmenistan. I assure you that it does exist in all of its burning glory.

Standing near the edge when the wind blew the right way was basically like being cooked alive. Super pumped I grabbed my Dino suit and ran around the crater. Of course Dinos and craters go together!

That night we went back to our truck and cooked dinner quickly then enjoyed a great night chatting next to the worlds largest campfire! I have way better pics of the Dino costume but waiting to get them off of some other people!

 

The crater was originally created in the 50`s while Soviet Union engineers were looking for gas. While being in this spot the ground gave way under the heavy machinery and collapsed revealing the giant crater. Not wanting to move the town nearby, the solution became to light the crater on fire and burn off the gas that would otherwise poison the town. They estimated that within a week or two the gas would be used up and the flames would die down. Needless to say that was not the case and is still burning bright to this day!

 

Starring at this crater in the middle of the night it is no wonder that they call it the "Gate to Hell" or "Door to Hell." The flames grew in the darkness consuming all of your attention making it hard to look away.