Wednesday, July 12, 2017

Ashgabat - The Too Perfect City

The Too Perfect City - Ashgabat

Where do I even begin to describe my first stop on this road trip? The only possible description would be that of a city that is almost too perfect. Robotic and planned. Beautiful but empty. Eyes that are constantly watching you every move.




Tall white marble buildings line either side of the careless streets. In the distance more white marble structures protrude from the ground as a stark contrast to the surrounding desert landscape. 


here are so many strange things that we felt while being here that is probably best I do not publish them all. However, here are a few interesting facts about Ashgabat and Turkmenistan that seem ok to share at this time. Up until his death in 2006 the former president Saparmyrat Niyazov created many rules and laws. Beards were prohibited as well as listening to music in the car. Fountains spring up in every little park because he thought they were cool.  Giant statues and building formed to eternalize his Golden Age as totalitarian ruler. Did I mention he even renamed the months and days to be those of family and friends?



The city has been rebuilt from the ground up after a shattering level 9 earthquake in 1948 that killed 2/3 of the population. It was then rebuilt in the Soviet style under Russian control. However, once gaining independence and using the vast wealth the country has gained through natural gas the city has been coated in marble and gold. Many describe it as the love child of Las Vegas and Pyongyang. By day people work smile less as robotic machines while also constantly patrolling to make sure we follow the rules. At night the city lights up as bright as Vegas. 
 

 

As we made our way through the city one thing became apparent, no one was around except government workers. Many of the structures had military that stood guard watching what you were doing. Street cleaners polished the already perfectly cleaned streets. We were the sole people doing anything enjoyable out of a city of over one million inhabitants. At moments it feels as if someone has created a virtual reality city made of marble and stuck us in the game during pause.


The city has a bunch of ministries but the most entertaining would have to be the Ministry of Horses and the Ministry of carpets. Horses are on many symbols and buildings through the country but the irony is during our entire stay we have not seen a single horse. This includes our 12 plus hours of driving through country sides. 


In the afternoon we had lunch at the Tolkuchka Bazaar, now renamed Altyn Asyr Market, and shopped around. Before anyone could even think about it our local guide Max warned us that we could not take any photos. I chose to have a traditional dish of plov made u of some meat, rice, and carrots. I would share a photo but even pictures of my food were prohibited. 

For dinner we went to a popular restaurant and all got to know each other. Four hours later, some meat BBQ, and a few drinks we were ready to go on our night tour. 



The night sky line lit up in the brightest neon colors. Some stayed light the same color while others rotated through from pinks to blues to greens. Again, it was stranger to see this city on display for no one. Our group began to make many jokes but very quietly as we were warned that all of our conversations were being listened to.

Finally, we ended our night back at the hotel with some dancing. For the dignity of Lee I will to share the story but let's say our group all had a good laugh at the events that happened to him. 
 


 


 
 

Journey Continued

Ashgabat, Turkmenistan 

Arrival - July 6th

3pm: I feel like this journey to get to Turkmenistan is never ending. So far I have been at it for about 30 hours. The last leg of the journey consists of leaving Frankfurt and making a stop in Baku, Azerbaijan before taking off again in the same plane to Ashgabat. The initial nerves from leaving home have completely faded. Jumping from one plane, to another, with long layovers, and trying to find places to sleep has made it like one long exhausting day. I am unsure of what to expect when I get there. Fingers crossed that everything goes smoothly.  

10:23 Azerbaijan Time

The second part of my Frankfurt to Baku flight got interesting real quick. First, the family sitting behind and next to me was flying with twin 3 year olds. I could say we are now Bff with the way the crawled over me, under me, and on top of me. The poor mom kept apologizing but the kiddos were way to cute to really care. We all switched seats about 20 times.

Second, the turbulence was bad! Easily this flight was in the top three bumpiest flights I have ever experienced. On top of being scared the flight attendants kept going over the loud speaker to tell us to sit down as the mom and I chased her child up and down the aisle every time they would escape the seat belt.

Third, there is a big difference of the planes they give Europe and the ones they fly into the Middle East and Central Asia. No tv screens at all, no outlets, 2 bathrooms, and a few other downgrades like rock hard seats. One lady questioned the lack of amenities and the stewardess said that it was only a short 5 hour flight. I am not complaining more just making a note on the quality difference. 

Finally, the stop off in Baku should probably be the only stop. Clearly they have to use that leg of the flight to justify the flight ever being able to get to Turkmenistan. There is no way they could operate a direct flight because there currently are old 6 of us on the entire 200 person plane!

11:55 Ashgaat, Turkmenistan

Wow I finally have made it with no real problems along the way. The airport was totally deserted. The airport was built only a few years ago and is in the shape of an eagle. Everything is beautifully colored white and green. The pillars are made up of intricate shapes that signify the four carpet symbols that can also be seen around the country.

I wish I could have taken a lot of pictures but I had been warned that many things are off limits bad didn't want to test my luck. However, I did snag a selfie walking down the main terminal. Right after I did four guards arrived following me. I was being paranoid. 

I got my visa with no problems, went through passport control, and grab my bag. Before exiting the airport a bunch of guards scanned my bag and searched it throughly for cigarettes and drugs. While they were doing this they chatted with me about being a tourist in very broken English. They kept giggling the whole time like I was comical to them.

Max, whose real name I can not pronounced picked me up and took me to the hotel for a good nights rest!

Wednesday, July 5, 2017

Here I Go!

It's that time of year again! Travel season!

Alright so every year I start off the summer travels with some mushy reason of why I like to travel and blah blah blah. Then the post is then usually followed with some type of epic fail on the way. So let's get started with these few important bulletins.

1. I'm Getting Married!



As most of your know Tyler proposed to me a few months ago! I said goodbye to him this morning...I've never felt the heartache saying goodbye to someone as I did this morning. 

2. Libby + Flying = Oil + Vinegar

Flight delays, cancellations, lost bags, broken train, 9 hours on the Tarmac, eye infections, and so on. Let's be honest, with the exception of the first trip, I have terrible travel luck. Not to mention I could make myself sick and the thought of having zero control over a giant metal bird carrying my body in the sky. Come on people, how in the world does that not terrify you? This year is going to be different. At the end of this post I will update you until I make it to my destination as it unfolds.... Uneventfully. 

3. Traveling Abroad Terrifies Me

Many people seem to have this notion that I am reckless and fearless. False. Traveling is tough and it takes every nerve in my body to get started. I would be lying if I said getting on a plane and flying to another country, exotic or typical, comes easily. Yes, once I get there the fears drift away and I settle back into my normal travel routine. However, the build up and even moments on the trip I really have to work for. There have been many times I've been paralyzed in fear and I've had to say over and over in my head to keep walking and to just go talk to someone. Today I had that moment. I wanted to turn around and run back through the security to my parents. So why do I do it?

4. The Love of Learning

I've always been fascinated with the world and learning about it. Seeing a text book or article is not enough. I want to learn while living it. To me and this alone it's worth the struggle of all of the above!


Travel Update:

1:24 July 5th



So far it is going smoothly. I made it through the airport in Pittsburgh, landed smoothly (minus the guy taking up half my seat, the toddler kicking my chair, and the ear piercing baby screams) in Toronto. I booked seperate tickets to save many. I have a few hours to kill at Starbucks before I can recheck my luggage. Time for way over priced salad and tea!


Getting through the gate I was amazed at the airport.I am unsure if I did not notice it last year because we were in a hurry but this airport is the future. Everywhere there are iPads connected to various table sizes and offering plenty of chair options. These iPads connect with the restaurants surrounding. If you wish you are able to order food and staf will bring I right to you. However, they are also free to use without any purchases. I loved this airport and will post more about it later. 

I took a seat next to my gate and enjoyed a nice relaxing 3 hour meal before leaving. A couple named Joan and Nate were flying to Italy. We talked about our families to pass the time.

6pm: Yay I am on the first long leg of the journey, an 8 hour flight to Frankfurt. The plane was a double decker plane. If I could afford one of those pods I could totally get used to flying. 

The flight went pretty fast with a mixture of sleeping and movies. I was surrounded by 50 kids taking their birthright trip to Israel!

2am (8am Frankfurt): Totally exhausted I exited the plane and looked at the monitor. I was shocked to see my flight to Ashgabat was on the screen when it didn't;t leave for another 6 hours. Speaking with the lady I asked if they didn't get many connections and that is why my later flight was already on the board. She explained they post everyone's connecting flights who were on board. When I told her which flight was mine she stared at me perplexed and admitted she had never heard of that city and country before. This is the 5th time I have gotte that response since I left home!

2:30 (8:30 Frankfurt): I found the quickest place to get horizontal and sleep listening to Bassnectar for four hours!




Tuesday, January 17, 2017

50 Countries at Last!

50 at Last!

Current travel map - 2017
As I sit here writing this it still seems a bit surreal. I am composing this post at my house outside of Pittsburgh, PA in the United States. This setting makes the reality of my accomplishment seem even more of a fantasy and a made up dream.

First Day of School
Let me take you back to my fourth grade self at Rostraver Elementary in the spring of '98. I was pretty oblivious to the workings of the world at that age. To me other countries existed in story books and movies but were not self functioning parts of the world. At the age of 8, I was just beginning to even realize what my own country consisted of. My brain could not yet comprehend the outside workings of the world and other functioning countries.  



However, that year of my life two events happened to change everything.

End of the world swing in Ecuador

First, I was lucky enough to have a wonderful teacher named Mrs. Shavel for class in fourth grade. As our teacher she decided to implement lessons that were not mandatory but rather what she was passionate about. 



Our curriculum included a story about a young girl dying with a cancer she had developed from atomic rays as a result of the bomb droppings in Japan. 
Angkor Watt in Cambodia

Instead of just teaching us that reading lesson, she had decided to create a list of fun activities. These ranged from learning some written Japanese, creating mini kimonos, and throwing peanuts.
          
 The excitement and learning from these lessons made me become slightly obsessed with learning about the world. How could other places be so different? If this was just one country what could other countries offer? I had to find out.

  
Volcanic Tunnels in the Galapagos
Mrs. Shavel had many more amazing lessons that year and even included a cultural day where we brought in ethnic foods. She fostered a love for the world in me and the thirst to learn more about it. 

Exploring the coast of Spain

At one point in the year I remember her asking us what we wanted to accomplish in our lives. What did I want to accomplish? Right then and there I decided I needed to see the world. I did not just want to see a part of it, but as much of it as possible. 

Trying my hand at dog sledding- Lapland

My goal would be to visit 50 countries by the time I was 30 years old!!!

Although looking back she probably was thinking more along the lines of job choices or more conventional thinking. 

Second, my family decided to take a trip to Disney World to see my sister perform in a parade. This was the same year that Animal Kingdom was just beginning to open. 


Hang En Cave, Vietnam

For anyone that has visited this magical land you know that part of animal kingdom is covered in Southeast Asian decor and is littered with Buddhist prayer flags waving in the breeze. This was my first time being in an atmosphere that seemed so exotic.


I was completely mesmerized and captivated by this part of the park and began to ask my parents questions. *To this day one of the reason I love Disney is the atmosphere it creates and curiosity it can instill in young children. 

Canyoning in DaLat, Vietnam

My dad, being a walking geography and history book, was able to tell me all about it. At this point I knew not only did I need to travel but I had to make it to certain places and learn about the "culture" my dad had explained. I wanted to not only learn as much as my dad did (which I still think is impossible) but also experience it first hand.

My top 5 country wishlist began: Nepal, Italy, Japan, Egypt, Rwanda


CIRT in Rome, Italy

Flash forward twelve years to the year 2010 at Penn State University sitting in my dorm room. I received an email asking if I wanted a $10,000 grant to travel abroad and study. Clicking the box I moved it to the trash with the other junk mail you get on a daily basis.  
Wait, what?! 

Chitlang, Nepal

Sitting there I thought for a second and was reminded of my dream to travel the world as a young girl. Could this be real? Was it a scam? I had to at least take the leap and find out. 

Quilatoa, Ecuador
I was 20 and had made it to four countries on family trips. Obviously while growing up I did not have the chance to go off and travel myself, but now as a young adult I could start making plans to see the world if I wanted to. 


I had to actually take the initiative and this could be it!
Paris with my sister Emily

After going into my trash mail and recovering the email I was surprised to see this was not a scam. It was a real opportunity the college was offering Education majors to study in two other countries. Nervously I attended the first meeting to get more information and shortly after I began to draft my application to be selected for the program. 

I was chosen to receive the scholarship along with seven others to study in England and Sweden under the Consortium for Intercultural Reflective Teaching aka CIRT.  


CIRT meets for the first time in England

This experience changed my life in another way I could never imagine. With the help of new friends and our professor Jamie Meyers my outlook on the world would be forever changed and my desire for travel deepened.


That year abroad brought many firsts for me. 

First try at ice climbing in Norway

I learned along with friends how to navigate foreign train stations successfully and unsuccessfully. We learned to book budget flights and miss flights. We dealt with sharing 12 person dorm rooms in hostels and that not all hostels equal sleeping in a room!

*Kaila and I discovered our hostel in Florence was actually a permanent tent!
 
I gained the confidence to backpack alone through Switzerland and had my first experience spontaneously making friends. Then missing the last train and jumping on a train to somewhere unplanned to hopefully meet them. Without a phone to contact them I took a leap of faith by messaging them on Facebook at an Internet cafe 5 minutes before the train took off. Shout out to the 50 strangers who showed up to greet me to their city with most of them having no idea who I was. 

PSU CIRT graduation with Kaila & Elesa
 
Looking back now Europe was child's play but the perfect learning experience. Shortly after graduation I watched my older sister get married while standing by her side. I was hired as a Kindergarten teacher and began my career. As happy as I was I knew something was missing again. I needed to see more and learn more about the world. I wanted to be able to incorporate it in my teaching as CIRT had taught me. A hunger had developed that needed fed and would leave me not content sitting still.

Nepal - Post Graduate Travel

Dancing at rural Nepalese wedding!

The following summer of 2013 I took off to Nepal where I taught in the mountains with a lovely family. Here my eyes were opened to the world beyond First World prospering countries. 
A rural classroom I taught and painted in!

 The sights, sounds, and smells intrigued me more than anywhere else. This was the world I was looking for. The one that I had seen in movies, learned in 4th grade, and saw replicated in a fancy way in Disney. 

However, this time it was real. Their life was how they lived daily. So different yet somehow the same as mine. The people and their lives touched me and I climbed to new heights and new desires once more!

Summit of Kalapattar near EBC - 18,514'









This trip also showed me I was physically able to push my body to new limits. I spent 10 days hiking to Everest Base Camp without a porter carrying my own 8 kilo pack through the mountains, felt my first earthquake, a rock slide, got food poisoning, and carried on while coughing up blood from my dry throat at 50 percent oxygen levels.  

Angkor Watt in Cambodia


So I continued to travel. Each summer I have taken off to new countries and found myself solo backpacking to wherever the days took me. 

The summer of 2014 I found myself in the midst of Thailand military coup, full moon parties, and white sand beaches. I explored Cambodian temples and gawked at the giant trees that grew over top of the temples for hundreds of years. 

West Ho Chi Minh trail in Vietnam



I spontaneously purchased a motorbike from a stranger and drove for a month up the West and East Ho Chi Minh trails with a stranger turned friend. We broke down, knocked on random huts, and asked for beds some nights. We towed each other using vines and burned our legs on exhausts.

In 2015 I went to South America starting the summer off with my mom. Together we saw the desserts of Chile, the salt flats of Bolivia, and the mountains of Peru. 


We barely made it across borders, traveled without a visa, and struggled at high altitude (although that didn't stop me from finding every rock formation to stand on top of).

Piranha fishing in the Amazon


There we parted ways and I continued solo through the rest of Peru. Flew to the Galapagos in Ecuador where I dove with hammerheads, swam with seals, and watched giant tortoises mate.

I went into the Amazon and kissed Piranhas and fed our Cayman named Crocopile. Finally that summer I found my dancing feet and settled in Cali, Colombia doing the salsa for weeks! Feeling like I had found a home away from home in Colombia.

Eating grasshoppers in China

Then this past summer of 2016 I circumnavigated the world in a plane. Starting once again with my mom we went to China to eat grasshoppers, climb the Great Wall, and pray in the Potala Palace in Tibet. We flew over the top of the world aka Mount Everest. We then went back to my family in Nepal so I could share the special experience with my mom.


Once we said our goodbyes I made my way to Africa where I experienced a whirlwind of a journey. Camping my way through Africa I experienced having lost luggage for the first week and depending on total strangers or essentials.

Hiking to see gorillas in Uganda
Uganda and Rwanda brought me face to face with Mountain Gorillas and genocide history. Tanzania gave me a first glimpse of a leopard and taught me that you always need a sleeping pad. Nairobi gave me wet giraffe kisses.

I pushed limits whitewater rafting class 5 rapids on the Zambezi, jumping off ledges into canyons, sitting on the edge of Victoria Falls, and petting lions. I found myself daydreaming about my current and past adventures and Africa brought some 11-13 hour drive days.


Whitewater Rafting down the Zambezi

In Botswana I learned to pole canoes in what seemed like the last frontier. We tracked animals, got dirty, rained on, burnt, dehydrated, and totally stocked full to our brim eating giraffe, warthog, wildebeest and more.

 
Finally, I finished the summer crossing the border from Botswana to South Africa. As I approach the desk I broke into tears. I had done it.

I had reached 50 countries. 

Petting a Lion in Zimbabwe

Some of these were on family trips, some through college, some on my own, and even some completely by accident. But here I was in South Africa at a small border crossing hitting that 50th country. I exited the office and tears poured down my face as I realized my accomplishment. Silently I thanked my family, Mrs. Shavel, Jamie Meyers and the CIRT program, and all of those friends I met along the way. All of those people had helped me develop a love for the world and gave me the confidence to travel! 

             

So after 50 countries this is what I have learned:

Old road at the crossroads of Argentina, Chile, & Bolivia


I learned to take off by myself with only my backpack. 

My first time ever exploring a city alone- Barcelona


 I gained the confidence to communicate with strangers even if that meant not being able to use words.  

I learned how to make new friends and stick with those people, but also move one when the time came. 

Old Volcano Lake - Quilatoa, Ecuador

 

I learned to take in every moment around me and appreciate the natural and cultural beauty around me. 

  

I learned that I could have an even deeper bond with my mom as we adventured through experiences I never expected to have with her.

Salt Flats

I learned that people can be very caring, nice, rude, cruel, and extreme. 

Camping in Hang En Cave, Vietnam

More importantly I learned that none of these traits came from a specific area, but those people could be found in every culture all around the world.

I learned to dance to every beat of every drum even if it was in my own head. And truly for the first time in my life not care what anyone else thought.

Dancing in the New Year- El Alto, Bolivia

I learned that each culture has its own unique and beautiful qualities and they should be treated respectfully. 

I learned that I am a strong independent woman. 
  
Climbing Ropes in Galapagos - Thanks Crossfit


I learned to succeed, accept success, and be proud of that success. T

o push myself to succeed instead of fearing failure. 

Broken bike again in West Ho Chi Minh trail



But I also learned how to fail. And in those failures I learned to give up when it was time so that I could start fresh with a new outlook.


  
I learned to be selfish and learned to be more selfless.

Making food in the Amazon

 I learned to sit still and to move forward.  

I learned to love and allowed myself to feel loved. 

I learned that each section of the world is totally different yet exactly the same as home. 




I learned to realize how lucky I am to have a First World life and to take advantage of my privileges to gain knowledge. 

Gettting my Padi diving license in Thailand

 I learned to swim. No really, I can barely swim so this is a real thing.

Grand Mosque- Abu Dhabi,UAE

 I learned to not judge a book by the cover. 


To accept everyone for who they are. 

To look past stereotypes.
To appreciate the beauty in the different clothing traditions in cultures.
Dressing my nephew in clothes from around the world!

Then I learned how to share that knowledge and teach my students and family about the world around them. 

I also learned how to inspire friends, family, and children to follow their dreams!
 
Finally, I learned that no matter how much you travel, how much you see, how much you learn, how much you open your heart, how much you give, and how much you take from the world you will never see it all! So enjoy the moment instead of fearing the end.

Laguna Colorada- Uyuni, Bolivia

So I will continue to encourage myself and encourage you to dream, live, and inspire!


I am unsure what will come next and what travel dreams I want to persue. But I look forward to the journey and the people I meet along the way. Here is to the next 25, 50, 0, or whatever life brings next.