My Backpack and I

Fear, excitement, nervous, alive, shocked, and overwhelmed.

Saying goodbye and stepping away from the only person you know into a world of unknown evokes every feeling a person can have. I've been told Peru, Lima specifically, is full of microclimates and you can experience all different weather in small periods of time and area. Traveling alone and starting your trip can do the same but with emotions.

 I didn't want to let go of my mom. For two and a half weeks we have been constant companions. Laughing at the funny mishaps on our trip and sharing special moments together. This is a new feeling this time. Leaving someone at the airport in another country. I'm used to saying my goodbyes and being excited to leave the USA and enter the world exploring from there. The comfort of traveling with my mom made it hard. As I gave one last hug goodbye panic set in. As I walked away the overwhelming of feelings hit me. The time is here! Just myself and the things I fit into my one small backpack. 

As I sit in the back of the taxi, Lima streets pass me by. As you would expect from South America the colors, sounds, and smells are vivid and alive. A strip of the street is lined with walls that are painted with iconic images from around the world. My fear begins to dissipate and realization begins to take it's place. With each picture that passes I notice I have insight to many of the lifestyles and cultures that take place there. Not because I have studies the area or watched documentaries but because I have truly witnessed life there. I have lived a portion, whether a day or half a year, of my life there. And with every picture I look at I feel a connection to those places.

 

That is part of why I love to travel. I don't learn from a textbook. I get to actually touch, see, smell, feel, and interact with the people, the places, the monuments. 

 

Some of you think I'm crazy to travel alone. Many think I'm lonely or love to be scared at the unknown. I'll admit I'm not fearless. The thought of traveling alone and starting a journey terrifies me. I've done it many times and it's been amazing in every way. Yet every time without fail I forget how easy it is and I get nervous. 

Yes I love to travel but I'm scared just like anyone else. The difference is I push through that uncomfortable feeling so I can gain the benefits. Because without travel I would miss seeing the real world. I would miss meeting the beautifully diverse people of the world. I would miss learning from the people, their culture, and their land. I would miss seeing the world I'm inspired by, learning about the cultures I'm passionate about, and living the life I'm destined to live!

 

I do not want to miss any of those things. It's a liberating feeling to know I can travel wherever I want and when I want with only a backpack. 

Simple I was to dream it, live it, and then inspire!

Go with the Flow - Part 1 La Paz

Go with the Flow! Part 1

Ther  are days that you have everything planned. You know you want to see this, this, and this. Today was one of those days. Waking up in a big city, and I mean massive, I wanted to see so much.

The city is sprawled over massive cliffs and valleys. Buildings are in every single space you can see. It almost doesn't look real.

Never in my life have I witnessed a city that looks anything like this. 

The plan was to see the square, see a church, shop, catch the downtown city tour, and the outer city tour. Fail!

We managed to do the first couple parts. First, we were greeted with an unexpected police ceremony in the square. Massive amounts of pigeons were flying around the square every time the band started up.

Who doesn't love taking selfies!

 

 

 The kids loved to out food on themselves and have the birds cover their bodies.

 Brave girl!

 

Next stop was the San Fransisco church. As we walked through the cobble stone streets we arrived in one of the major intersections. People everywhere. With the Copa America games going on the entire plaza was filled with people. Soccer contests were going in everywhere, djs, bounce houses, and more. 

When we made our way to the church and entered we did so just in time to catch the end of mass. Here we were in a gorgeous church as everyone stood singing and praying. Chills ran through my body. It was a touching moment.

 

The markets behind the church were everywhere. They sold every souvenir you could possibly imagine. Handcrafted bags, chess sets, dolls, and clothes. The sweater selection was incredible. Beautiful sweaters for less than 12 dollars depending on your haggling ability.

 

We had heard about the witches market. We made our way to find it amongst the shops. There on the street we found them. A few shops in the street had llama fetuses hanging from the ceiling. These were meant to be burnt and buried under your house each year for good luck. They claim they were all miscarriages but I'm still not sure I buy it.

In the shops they sold many talismans for good luck, good romance, health, wealth, and more.

 

They also had many herbs and concoctions for your.. Umm... Relationship life!

 

Then we looked at the clock. Uh oh! We have to run if we are going to make our tours! And that my friends is where our plans went wrong and our real adventure began!

Legal At Last!

Legal at Last!

 

Phew is it fun to type those words. Let me do it again, legal at last! Ok one more time, my mom and I are legally in Bolivia at last!!

Ending our amazing nature tour of southern Bolivia we were taken to the city, at least it seemed like a city after the lack of civilization we had been. It was pretty run down with buildings half built. Pulling off to the side of the road Ruth took us to an ATM. Please, please work! I could tell my mom was nervous as we entered the cards.

 

Money! Our first withdrawal worked. Ok can we get another one? Yes! Three withdrawals later we were halfway to a visa. 

A little further down the road Ruth led us into a beat up door way with a dirty sign reading migracion. Entering the doorway I was greeted with the feeling of being back in Nepal. Big open lobbies, with massive floor tiling, some falling apart, and nothing really in it. We took the spiral stairs upstairs to the office.

The office gave me the same feeling. If you've ever visiting a place such as Nepal, India, and now I guess parts of South America you will understand what I mean. The room was massive! But massive for no point. Two small desks sat at opposite sides of the room.

The officer called us over and Ruth began to explain our situation. He stared at us blankly. Basically the look of "what do you mean you've been traveling in the country without a visa?!?" 

We got a little background on the history of united stats visas in the Bolovia. Basically every other country gets to visit stunning Bolivia for a mere three or four dollars. The United States on the other hand has to pay a whopping fee of 160 U.S. Dollars. The reason behind this is thought to be because of the previous Bolivian president. After being a down right terrible leader, stealing money, and basically just sucking at life according to Bolivians, he fled the country and arrest and is hiding in the states! To make matters worse he supposedly is originally born in the United States to begin with.

I never encountered any negativity from any Bolivians for being a citizen of the United States. I found every Bolivian to be extremely kind, helpful, and friendly. Only their visa control seems to hate us.

Anyways, we go into the other side of the office which is once again a massive room. In one corner a small glass booth stands where we pay another man. In the other 80 Percent of the room stands empty except for awkwardly placed couches. Once I take more note on these weird similarities that exist halfway across the world I will write another post.

Finally we are handed our passports with visas!!!! Wooooo hooooo we are legal at last.

Ruth and Wilson drop us at the airport. I got a little emotional saying goodbye to them. I'm unsure whether they felt the same way but they seemed to be more than tour guides. We were really got to know them over the past few days in the wilderness. Hands down they have been the best guides I have ever met. They went so far out of their way to make everything nice. From lunches outside, to standing on cars to take pictures, to helping us with visas! 

In the airport we started as the only ones. Only two flights fly out so the airport is tiny. With no heat the one worker brought over an outdoor heater to keep us warm. Finally at boarding time we went through a small security, walked through to boarding, and straight out of the door into the cold night and our small airplane! Next stop: La Paz!!!

Bolivian Salt Flats

Bolivian wilderness part 5

Our last day was amazing as the rest. I feel like I am repeating myself about how shocked I get with the nature views. Although I have amazing pictures To prove what my eyes saw they can still not truly do it justice. How Can a picture portray in a small image the gorgeous and massive scenery surrounding you. These salt flats are no exception! 

 We spent the night in an amazing hotel built out of salt. It was very fancy, yet still freezing cold, for a Hoeflein made out of salt. I guess when you are in the middle of no where things such as heat and hot water aren't possible.

 

Since we arrived to the flats in the evening we did not have the full effect of what we were truly on.

 

We started the morning with a trip to a mans house who collected old artifacts from the past lives of the people in the regions.

 

Next, he had a garden of stoned that people found that looked like objects. Some really did a good job of portraying them! Of course there was another mummy here! I was most impressed with the fact that all of the stone were standing based solely on balance and nothing else! 

 

The next hours were spent driving through the flats. Depending on the area of the flat, different salt crystals were formed. For those of you who know me well it seems like this should be w dream come true. I'm not going to lie, I licked the wall at the salt hotel because I had to see for myself! But really this is never ending forever life supply of salt! Heaven!

 

Some areas were chunky.

These areas dried in awesome patterns.

The landscape sprawled out as far as the eye could see. The bright sun beating down on the white made it hard to look at anything without strong sunglasses.

 

They had so many cactuses! I've never seen a wild cactus let alone these massive ones.

They even had cute signs saying not to destroy them!

One of the coolest things about the flats are the amazing pictures and illusions you can make with them! 

 

Our guides are so fabulous coming up with poses, taking pictures from the car, and having a laugh with us. I think they have become more of our friends than just guides. 

 

In the middle of the flats there is the original hotel made out of salt. Because of the pollution it is no longer operation. We stopped to check it out and take some pictures! This is another amazing hotel made entirely from the salt flats. Ours was prettier! 

We stopped at one of the islands. Scaling to the top I was greeting with a ridiculous view of salt. Salt salt salt! Everywhere! Up here was also the spot where they sacrifice a llama on the new year. Ruth explained the process and that the new year was in two days! The president would be traveling to the island to watch the ritual.

 

Our finals stop was at the edge of the flat to see how they process the salt. It's a pretty intense process. A guy has to shovel the salt into piles to dry. They make these cool pyramids.

Next, they shovel it into trucks.

Then they roast, and clean, roast, and clean the salt until it is ready. The crazy part is is that they have an unlimited amount of salt and it is not exported out of the country. It is so cheap you could buy lifetime supply for less than 10 dollars if you wanted! I love it!!!

Lagoons, mummies, and Salt

Bolivian Wilderness part 4

I will not bore you with the exact details of the day. Basically we are really, I mean really, in the middle of nowhere. There are no real roads, no real towns, just nature so far. It is beautiful and I can not take enough of it in.

 

We visited a chain of four lagoons. They were each pretty and unique in their own way.

 

My favorite was a lagoon at the edge of the "big city"! This was a tiny little place that sat in the middle of nowhere and we kept calling it the big city like New York! 

 

Our guide got s laugh out of that. The lagoon had so many flamingos hanging out singing to each other. I guess I never thought about what sound a flamingo makes.

 

The most beautiful is when they fly over the water! The funny thing is that this lagoons was called the smelly lagoon because of all the sulfur in the water. 

Next we passed by an active volcano still steaming.

 

We made out stop in front off it where massive rocks reached out of the ground. My first thought? Which do I climb first?

 

Wilson drove over some crazy bumpy roads but was amazing at managing them. We arrived on a flat are that extended for awhile with mountains in the background. We stopped and they said we would have lunch. Let's just say these two are awesome. They noticed we love being outside and in the middle of nowhere! So there we sat eating amazing food in the middle of nature! This trip is amazing!

 

A long and rocky drive later we arrived in San Juan... Aka the creepiest place I have ever witnessed. Ruth led us up into a small museum.  Here we learned about the way of life in the past and how the harvest quinoa. She also described how long ago they buried people in little rock huts with their belongings when they died. This would allow them to use them in the afterlife.

We went for a stroll through the cemetery. She pointed out the rock building and it was kinda cool. I took a picture and thought very little of it.

Then we saw a bit bigger one. She told us we were allowed to look inside. Obviously I didn't expect to see anything. To my huge surprise there was the skeletal remains sitting there!!!!

 

What the heck! Seriously?! Stone hut after stone hut I was greeted by creepy mummies sitting in their tombs. Ok not mummies,  I could have reached out and touched anything I wanted. No one was there to guard or care what we did. So bizarre. My mom had nightmares about them at night as well.

 

Another long drive and as the sun was getting lower we got our first glimpse of the salt flats. Holy crap this is a massive flat land of salt. I mean massive. Not a little. A lot!

We finished the night taking a few photos as the sun set. The guide got out some chairs and some delicious Bolivia wine and we toasted to another fabulous day! 

Painted Lakes and Headaches! Laguna Colorada

Bolivian Wilderness part 3

 

Driving downwards the headache was rough. Popping some Tylenol I prayed it would go away. Closing my eyes I wished it to go away. When I opened them again I saw my mom was clearly in the same state I was. Maybe it was all psychological. 

The next stop was Laguna Colorada. For the rest of my life I will not forget the sight I saw as we approached the lagoon. Reds and pinks mixed together in the water in front of a mountain. The lagoon truly was a mixture of vivid colors. The closer we got the bigger the lagoon turned out to be!

Driving around the sides we were able to see flamingos hanging out in the water. Our driver parked at the top of the hill. As we hopped out the best view of all came into focus. From the angle we were standing the water made stores of vivid shades of pink, orange, red, and white. I felt as if I was staring at a famous painting.

 

If I wasn't seeing it with my own eyes I would never have believed that this existed.

 

Hiking down to the bottom we were greeted with another view. The pink waters attracted the most flamingos it seemed. Since we were still at a high altitude it was hard to breath and the wind was strong as we strolled along the lagoon. I do not know how the flamingos did not get blown away.

The eight was unreal! It still seems like someone painted the lake. As if the lake was a canvas and vivid colors were spilt all across it in lines.

 

Turning back up to the car we realized we had to hike back up the hill we came down. Boy oh boy is it hard to hike when you are a much lower oxygen intake from the altitude. I'm not ashamed to admit both my mother and I were struggling from the effects of altitude.

Our driver whisked us away to the other side of the entire lagoon. The last view was breathtakingly beautify but this view seemed to look like an illusion. The way the water mixed with sulfur and the red water did not seem possible. I blinked many times to make sure my eyes were not deceiving me. For once, pictures have perfectly portrayed what I am talking about.

 

The drive to our last stop before the hotel was rough. It was very bumpy and not for someone who gets motion sick. The last stop was a series of rocks jutting out of the ground. Of course I had to climb to the top of one of them. Getting up was the easy part. At the top I tried to catch my breath as the wind gushed against my face. I had to grab a rock at one point because I was convinced it would blow me off!

 Our truly final stop, I kept thinking the one before www our past, was a field of massive rock formations reaching out from the flat ground. Obviously I had to climb it! Not going to lie once I reached the top I was terrified.

 

 This high altitude made it hard to breath but even harder as the hgusting wind pelted my face! I had to hold on to the rock to catch my breath! 

 

Arriving at our hotel we truly were in the middle of nowhere! Built out of mostly natural materials the hotel was pretty cool, literally. We checked in and had an hour before dinner. My mom was pretty sick and tried to lay down for a bit. I chose to take a shower. What started out as a warm shower quickly turned cold. As I got dressed I was literally gasping for air and shaking! 

Dragging my mom to dinner we sat down in the most comfortable enclosed porch area. They had a stove and heaters going and I could not get warm enough. I'm pretty sure my mom was about to have her jacket melted off. The one wall was all glass that overlooked the beautiful landscape. 

The evening was the definition of rough. The altitude hit us hard and it was showing. I braved the evening after my mom went to bed and talked with my guide and driver. They are very funny and we exchanged stories and cultural differences. I really enjoy them. When I got back to the room I laid down and tried to shut my eyes. The all too familiar feeling from Everest came back. Although I was tired and exhausted I felt like someone was holding my eyes open and drilling into my head. I'm not sure how many times I woke up that evening but it seemed like the never ending night!

Higher than high! Bolivian altitude

Higher than high

Bolivian wilderness part 2

A living ice cube we pant our way slowly back to our new vehicle that will be our daytime home for the next few days. Confused and bewildered at what just happened we are slightly nervous for what these next days will entail. So many warnings online told us of the crazy driver, altitude sickness, and freezing heartless nights in shacks in negative 30 weather.

As we begin the drive a massive cloud swoops down the closest mountain and snow starts to fall from the sky. There is no denying that we are in a very harsh climate. Our guide informs us that the clouds may leave the lagoons not as bright as we are expecting and that the famous volcanos will be hidden in clouds. My heart sank to my stomach and disappointment filled me.

First stop, we have to buy tickets and enter the park reserve. Here we are handed a map of the area and get one last decent toilet stop.

As we enter the reserve and drive through the mountains the first lagoon, or Lagoon Blanco, appears to our right. It is beautiful! 

 

Next up was Laguna Verde or Green Lagoon at the base of Lincancabur.

 

 Our guide, Ruth, gave us more history of the rituals and Incan practices that took place in the volcano. Looking up to the 5800m volcano I see it hiding behind the clouds. The perfect visual for an eerie past. The volcano supposedly has a lagoon at the summit and one day it would be a very cool thing to witness.

 

Moving along we travel in the car for awhile. Occasionally we stop so I can snag pictures. 

Our next stop is the hot springs. After a surprisingly small amount of convincing my mother decides to come with me. She reminded me that it's not very often people get to experience a natural hot spring, at 4000m with their daughter in the middle of Bolivia at 15 degrees. I couldn't agree more!!

 

I'm not sure what I was more fascinated with: the hot springs or the fuzzy algae I kept touching! Another thing became apparent as we bathed in the hot water. Many backpackers are on this route. Here I was with my mom on a cool, 20 something, backpacker route exploring the unique and isolated parts of the world. It was such an amazing feeling!!!

 

Getting out was not nearly as fun as getting in. Who wants to put clothes on cold and sticky wet bodies in freezing temps? Not me!

The bathroom was by far the most entertains. I'll include the bathroom directions. Let's just say that it didn't go according to plan but I am not publically willing to divulge the unfortunate experience! 

 

Back in the car we relaxed and watched the landscapes pass us by. A small nap later we were woken by our guide to look out of the window. Nothing around us but small bumps and smoke. Where in the world are we?

The answer: Geysers! 

I go to get out of the car and I am quickly denied. Mother Nature clearly has other plans as the wind beats against my door. Using some strength I slowly pry the door open until Ruth ,out guide, holds it as I make my escape. She later told us how a door has been blown off of its hinges in the past!

 

I take three steps and cannot breath. Gasping for air I try not to panic. I feel the wind on my face and know it's just the string wind that is blocking my body from good oxygen. I turn around and inhale a few times. Not great but bare able. I see my mom struggling in the same way. I turn around only to be assaulted by rock and dirt particles. Trying to catch my breath I am so taken aback I'm not sure what to do. 

I look up to see smoke rising from all of the holes. My senses are suddenly overwhelmed as I smell the sulfur and gas. We are at active geysers! My mom and I brave the hike as we take pictures, stare, and video the awkward dirt bubbles. A tourist recently died from getting to close and falling in. I on the other hand found it amusing to stick my iPod out and right over them!

 

Struggling to make it even to the car I exchange looks with my mom! Does she feel the same way I do? Is she out of breathe from a short walk? 

Using my little strength I get back in the car panting. As we drive away, downhill, Ruth asks us about s half hour later if we have headaches. Yes!!! Someone is drilling in my brain! I know this feeling! I've felt this before. Ahhhhh altitude! How high are we?!?!

4900 meter!!! Omg! That's higher than the altitude I got sick at on the way to ever set! That's very higher! My mom and I exchange panicked looks. This is what everyone online warned us against! In a hope of confidence I asked what we will be sleeping at. The answer was 4200m which was still higher than when I got sick.

Wish us luck!!