Day 2 Phakding to Namche Bazaar via Monjo On June 14, 2013
Everest Base Camp
First I want to send a shout out to my friends who wrote all the messages in my journal on our last night together. I have been writing a lot during my down time and it has really brought some hard core laughter out.
Today was hard! It is as simple as that! Everyone who knows me knows I'm not exactly a fan of hiking uphill, ironic huh? I laugh when I think back to the days of ski racing and Fred, Rich, Ricky, TK, or Scott would tell me to hike during practice and I would complain or laugh and get on the chair lift. Rich once told me it builds character and I would always respond in the same manner "I have plenty of character!" Well now here I am successful at 3440 meters and over another 2000 to go! Now how I wish I would've built that hiking character at an early age.
The first 2 and a half was not bad. Although my bag already feels heavier, it is very comfortable. This part of the journey was back and forth across the raging river, which is in full swing during monsoon season and is very loud. The river is a crystal blue and white water as it bashing against the giant boulders. When you look up from there it is a mixer of giant cliff edges and beautiful greenery up into the clouds.
I ate a delicious lunch of potatoe curry and chipati for lunch at Nirvana lodge. This was the last stop before the three hour hike to Namche Bazar. I relaxe and read a book about the legend of the yeti written by one of the most famous mountain climbers, Reinhold Messier. There was an adorable dog who came and slept at my feet. It is so nice to be up in the mountains and be able to not be afraid of rabid dogs who are mangled and diseased carousing the streets.
At the next suspension bridge I was somehow lucky enough to come across a yak caravan getting ready to cross the bridge. What luck!!! Like I said earlier, it is off season so there is barely any tourists and no need for the amount of yaks that usually travel. I was able to snap a picture of them going across, and them alone. Bonus points now for off season travel!!!
Finally we made it to the last bridge before Namche Bazar, the Hilary bridge named after Sir Edmund Hilary. It was high above the river with a rocky path leading up to it. This was a struggle and I felt guilty for having a hard time because right next to me was a group of guys carrying materials to the next town. Three had giant logs on their backs balanced by a cloth protecting their back, a rope around their head, a rope in their left hand to pull it up, and a wooden cane in the right to help balance!!! It was quite amazing to watch these guys accomplish this task. The other group had big baskets in the same manner that were over flowing with snacks and drinks such as Pepsi, sprite, and beer. Here I am struggling with my 10kg backpack.
I made it across the bridge relieved to learn that from this point on it was straight up. The little mountain I had just taken a picture of from the water side was now what I would be zig zagging across until reaching the top.
Ill spare you the details but I will say this:
I struggled hard but pushed on!
I will be a beast by the end of this trek if I succeed. If I don't succeed I will be a small beast!
At the halfway point there is a lookout over a rock and the feeling of setting down my pack and seeing what I had just walked up is addicting. Once you make it a certain distance you feel like you could do it again, that is until reality hits when you take that next step. Maybe this is why people enjoy this stuff because it gives you a sense of accomplishment. Just looking down at the river I had come from have me a wonderful feeling. My body regaining its breath and strength feels elated starring at the beautiful surroundings. No snow capped mountains but the scenery is still to die for.
I forgot to mention that during lunch high above us was a cliff edge that ducked into a massive over hang. Beneath sheltered by the rock was an old monastery. So crazy!
We pushed on for another long haul stopping frequently as I panted desperately for breath. For some reason I though Namche was low and that we were going to have to scale down all the progress we had made. Luckily, I was wrong. We came to a checkpoint to have my card checked again and catch our breaths. While sitting there I read the many posters warning about altitude sickness and the symptoms that can lead to death, something that happens more often than you'd think. They all warn to go slow and to turn around if you don't feel well. The group of volunteers of three who went the week before me were flights out due to sickness.
Ok so reality set in, I'm pretty high! At 3440m I'm higher than I have ever been in my life! At least I'm pretty sure I am, I didn't check my heli ski height but I know it's higher than the United States ski resorts I have been to, but don't quote me! Either way tomorrow ill push for 3880 and that I am sure is the highest!
Up more and more stone stairs and hills Namche is in site and I am counting the steps to setting down my bag. Finally we reach the Comfort Inn, yes you heard me right, the comfort in! Now this is not your typical comfort in but it is still pretty nice with a comfy bed and cold shower since there isn't enough sun to warm the water.
Namche Bazar is pretty cool. Situated at 3440+ meters it serves as a trading hub of the area. It is the most developed area of the trek and hosts hotels, guesthouses, bars, hookah lounge, and even Internet. Unfortunately or fortunately, most are closed and the workers spend their days preparing for the coming season and playing cards or bad mitten.
The evening was quiet and I I watched some Sherpa play a card game marriage that I still do not understand. For dinner I enjoyed a nice meal of Dal Bhat and finished the day by learning some Nepali words!
Tomorrow I make the climb to 3880 m to acclimate before returning low to sleep in Namache another night.
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