I'm now back down to a normal oxygen level in Namche Bazaar. Now that I can think straight ill try to describe some of what I saw and felt. I took some notes while I was up there but as you can tell from my post I was not thinking too clearly.
The 26 hours there were spent with 16 hiking, 9 trying to rest, and maybe one actually asleep!
Lobouche to Gorek Shep!
If I thought sleep in Periche was getting rough I was only kidding myself. The previous night I went to bed exhausted only to find myself waking constantly. It may have been the combination of the altitude and my continually worsening sore throat that now killed every time I swallowed.
Oh well, it was 730 am and time to get to the next town, Gorek Shep at 5100m. My guide, killer, the Chinese, their guide, and I put on our packs and were on our way to our final stop before base camp.
Nerves and excitement filled my body. I had already gotten sick with food and now my throat but had only a slight headache. I was nervous about getting altitude sickness but determined to make it. The first part of the trek was easy. It was in the valley on a flat surface. The day was slightly cloudy but gave of a few nice views of the mountains.
In my typical fashion I spotted a high rock and I just had to climb to the top to take pictures. Come on, why not?
On the flats I ran into the Canadian from the day before. He gave me some tips which included being in the hill hiking by 4 am to make sure I got a good view of Everest and to not expect to sleep well. Both would prove to be very true!
The next part of the trail goes straight up ending with an arch of prayer flags. Reaching the top was trying but very rewarding. From this height many more mountains could be seen. Killer and I ran, if you could even consider our out of breath, panting, fast walking a run, to different rocks taking turns climbing them and taking photos.
Absolutely beautiful.
A little while later we came to the turning point as I like to call it. You go up a tiny path and turn the corner and the world changes.
We have now entered the land of nothingness. No grass, no trees, no bushes, just nothing.
Because the clouds had started to come in and hide the tops of the mountains the only thing visible were rocks, rocks, some glacier pools, and more rocks. I have never seen in my entire life so many rocks. Every. Single. Place. You. Look. ROCKS.
I was shocked. I guess I had always thought of the Himalayas as the beautiful green areas that looked up at the mountains. It hadn't really hit me until now that I would be climbing into those mountains, past the lush greenery, beautiful flowers, and everything else living. Here I was at 5100m amongst rocks being ushered down in thousands by the glacier. The glacier itself was only visible in areas where it had cracked open and held deep pools of blue-green water.
After spending some time climbing the path up and down the rock hills, across a small metal plank spanning a small river, and even sliding trying to cross a non path through a steep dirt slide (my guide thought it was funny taking me off the path, more in him later) we finally reached Gorek Shep. The only thing Killer could say about the place was "I don't like this place, I don't like it at all!"
Setting our stuff down in the tiny lodge that would serve as my sleeping quarters for the night, I stuffed down a granola bar and as much water as I could. I knew I should be starving but all I could think was how tired I was. The Chinese couple managed to somehow eat, although the girl was struggling hard and had been experience stomach problems for days.
Gorek Shep to Everest base camp!
With a camera, Yough t-shirt, bottle of water, and every ounce of winter clothing on my body possible we started the couple hour hike to base camp. This was it! I was finally on my last few hundred meters of altitude gain and I would make it. This last part of the walk is by far the scariest part. Luckily I had been warned about the rock slides and avalanches but nothing could prepare me. First we walked across the sand (still confuse where this big sand pit came from) and we came to the well known yellow Everest base camp sign. My heart raced as I snapped a photo.
The whole rest of the trek was straight toward the camp. The area is so vast that it seemed like we walked forever and were not making and progress. First we would walk in the rock slope side. Every minute or two the sound of rocks clinking down the side could be heard. Immediately the group would stop and try to pinpoint the sound. Personally my heart would stop. Then ever so often an avalanche in the opposing mountain would happen and we could see the bottom of it come pouring down the hill out of the clouds. This was nothing like I expected. Monsoon season turned this place into a constant shifting landscape full of unwelcoming signs.
After awhile it was much easier to get used to the sounds. A few times I was even daring enough to knock a big rock of the side and see how many rocks it old make slide down with it.
Finally the other guide pointed across the ditch to a spot on the glacier and said "there is base camp!" Carefully we crossed over d walked on the rocks being carried by the glacier. Some spots would release a gush a of water. One time I stepped and the rocks slide right away down into a water hole. Within a few minutes we were there!
Oh my god! I'm actually standing at Everest base camp!!!! Every spring people make this long trek to acclimate here and ultimately attempt Everest. After snapping some pictures of baby boy at the camp, a few of myself jumping and with Yough and ski team attire I stopped to looked around! I had a new wave of energy with my accomplishment and ventured further.
Looking in the distance I could make out the khumbu icefall, considered to be one of the most dangerous areas of an Everest climb! I can say with confidence that no one could pay me enough money to attempt to climb that. Most proud ice chunks that fall with the movement of the glacier is something that seems crazy to challenge. I could barely walk fifteen minutes without needing to catch my breath yet people spend hours climbing up this mountain. Standing there it was hard to feel anything but être,Ly overwhelmed and insignificant against these giant mountains. They showed no forgiveness as the harsh wind and cold blew on us.
I celebrated our success by splitting up half a candy bar between the five of us! Savoring our little chocolate ration we all smiled and laughed before heading back through the rocks!
Making it safely back to the town, if it can even be called that with it's few small houses, we warmed by the fire. I had a little credit left on my phone which I used to post two pictures then feeling completely tired from the many hours hiking retired to bed. Unfortunately I found out that sleep at this altitude on a first night is virtually impossible. I tried to write in my blog but that was a fail as well. Every time I closed my eyes, my body was exhausted, it felt like someone was holding them open in a fish bowl!!! Definitely not fun at all. Thank goodness I would be getting up at 330 to climb kalapathar and then could get out of this unfriendly environment!
No comments:
Post a Comment